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2020早春时装精选

希曼头条 2019-09-26 11:02:10

2020早春时装精选

Best Looks From Resort Show 2020

早春度假系列一般影响较小, 相对于春夏和秋冬的大秀,几乎会被忽略早春系列通常都是非常实穿,而且和快速变化的时尚工业保持同步, 真正的时尚达人要走在潮流前线, 一年两次的潮流发布是远远不够的。 所以我们给你盘点了2020早春系列的精品, 潮流不放假, 在新的时装大秀来临前,你也可以穿得出彩。不管是要去度假还是在城里上班,这些款式你可以一直穿到2020秋冬也不会过时。

Resort shows definitely sit lower on the scale in terms of being high profile and they tend to be over looked compared to the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter shows. It’s unfortunate because resort wear is often the most real life style inspiration and with the fast paced nature of the industry we have today, real fashionistas need trend reports more than twice per year of they want to stay at the top of their game. So, we’ve brought you the crème de la crème of the 2020 resort shows so you know exactly what to wear during the off peak season. No matter whether you’re heading to a far flung resort yourself or if you’re staying in the city, these trends will see you straight through until you get your Fall/Winter 2020 fix in September.

Chanel

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Opening Look  Closing Look

图片来源:上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

这是Vivian Viard在Chanel的第一个系列。 现在Chanel要同时传承Coco Karl Lagerfeld的风格,Viard面临着不小的挑战, 看起来她的工作完成得不错。 Viard采取了谨慎的态度, 采用了很多这个品牌过去的元素,同时也对Chanel去往何处做了自己的阐述。Chanel2020早春系列依然在巴黎大皇宫举行(Grand Palais), 这一次秀场布置成了世纪之交的一个火车站。

Over at Chanel it was the first collection designed by Vivian Viard. With Chanel now carrying both the legacy of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, Viard had big boots to fill and fill them she did. Playing it safe was a good move from Viard, pulling elements from the brand’s past as well as where she plans to take it in the future. The show was housed as it usually is, in the fabulous architecture of the Grand Palais in Paris, this time transforming the interior art nouveau building into a turn of the century train station.

Chanel在老佛爷的执掌下, 有一种犀利的个人美学在其中。 从本次早春系列来看, Viard决意把女性的柔美带回来, 这也是创始人Coco的倾向。也许是和Coco相同的女性视角启发了Viard, 把Chanel恢复到最开始的样子, 同时也保留了深入Chanel血脉的Lagerfeld的风格。早春系列做到了包含三位设计师的特色, 包容的款式即使Coco也会喜欢, 硬挺的廓形也正是Karl后期的设计风格。

Under the helm of Lagerfeld, the Chanel brand took on a harsh, edginess that reflected Karl’s aesthetic but it seems Viard wants to bring softness back into the brand, something that was definitely more present under the rule of Gabrielle. Perhaps it’s her womanly touch that has inspired Viard to bring Chanel back to its roots while still keeping the garments stitched with Lagerfeld veins. The collection truly embodied the creative vision of all three, encompassing looks that perhaps Gabrielle would have worn today as well as stiffer silhouettes that could have been designed by the late Karl himself.

我最喜欢的是那款开衫醒目的阔腿裤在脚踝处是不规则剪裁, 缩褶衬衫搭配休闲西装夹克,点明了海军的主题。 一眼就能看出源自Chanel的整体风格,只是多了一点宽松的廓形和轻松的感觉,绝对是旅行的首选。 这一款是Chanel标志性的单色的搭配,黑色的唇彩和中分直发完全是正宗Chanel的氛围。如果上一款是对Coco的致敬,可以想象她也愿意在2020年穿上这款设计,后一款就是典型的老佛爷风格, 一件黑色的连体长裙,搭配金色链条为整款造型增色不少,最后配饰用了大码的白色硬领和C字连锁。

The opening look was one of our favorites, featuring wide leg pants cropped at the ankle, a smocked blouse and matching blazer jacket with just a hint of a nautical theme. This put together look appeared like a derivative of the classic Chanel suit only more carefree and with a looser silhouette, ideal for travel. Of course, the opening look was monochrome, a color palette Chanel has chosen as their signature and the look was finished off with a black lip and straight, center-parted hair for that iconic polished Chanel brand vibe. If the first look was a nod to Gabrielle and what we imagine she would wear in 2020, the last look had Karl written all over it; a maxi length black halter dress with gold chain accents and an oversized starched white collar, complete with interlocking C’s detail.

Christian Dior

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图片来源:上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

Maria Grazia的梦幻旅行早春系列让我们体验了一把摩洛哥和非洲风情。 上世纪60年代Yves Saint Laurent在Dior任职时, 他曾以马拉喀什(摩洛哥城市)为灵感设计了一件外套, 所以Chiuri把摩洛哥元素发扬光大也是合情合理了。 非洲蜡染近些年由于开始数字化量产价格便宜了很多, 这些真材实料的蜡染成了最大的亮点,这也是非洲面料和印花可以在奢侈品时尚有一席之地的原因。

Maria Grazia Chiuri transported us to Morocco and Africa and back again with this dreamy travel inspired resort collection. Back in 1960 with Yves Saint Laurent at the reigns of Dior, he designed a coat for Marrakech and so it doesn’t come as a surprise that Chiuri wanted to expand on this heritage of Morocco as inspiration. Pulling authentic African wax prints that have in recent years become cheapened by over produced digital versions, these real deal wax prints made a huge statement ; that African textiles and prints can and do sit in the luxury market.

Chiuri 一直忠于他对Dior的美学理念,外套选择男性化的廓形,然后和女性化的连衣裙、短裙混搭, Chiuri一直很注意精致图案的运用。和图案一起的是慕拉诺(意大利岛屿名)玻璃珠做成的贴花和装饰, 这种珠子原产于意大利, 很快传入非洲。这个系列的每一个图案, 每一个装饰, 每一针一线都经过深思熟虑来说故事,而且能把故事串联起来。

Chiuri stayed true to her aesthetic for Dior, choosing masculine silhouettes for her outerwear and mixing them with feminine dresses and skirts, all the while paying attention to the placement of the exquisite prints. Alongside the motifs were Murano glass beads used as appliqué and embellishment, beads that were actually originally created in Italy but quickly found their way into Africa. Every print, every embellishment, every stitch in this collection was thoroughly thought out in order to convey the story and create a cohesive narrative.

我最喜欢的款式由模特Maria Miguel演绎的及踝细绉布长袖铁锈色连衣裙,荷叶边爱德华式的衣领,既简洁又时髦, 这件长裙既可以穿在沙漠的夜晚看星星,也可以去露天市场买香料。功能多样, 日夜都可以穿。

One of our favorite looks worn by model Maria Miguel featured a burnt rust long sleeve dress in a plissé fabric, maxi in length and with a ruffled, almost Edwardian style collar. Simple and chic, this dress conjured up nights spent star gazing in the desert, shopping for spices in the souks and a versatile nature that could be worn for day or night.

另一件我很喜欢的设计是前襟对开的款式,有流苏的赭色和乳白色羊毛开衫用于白天穿着, 这种面料是摩洛哥妇女纺织和陶瓷协会制作的, 名叫SumanoChiuri为了这个震撼的真实系列进行了很多合作。

Another favorite look was again the opening look, featuring an ochre and cream cardigan with fringe for days, which was actually created by Moroccan women’s textile and ceramic association called Sumano, one many collaborations Chiuri embarked upon to create this strikingly authentic collection.

Louis Vuitton

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图片来源:上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

 

早春最大的潮流应该是各种各样的开衫,这一季显得异常多。LV开衫则是非常前卫地混合了运动服和好莱坞魅力美学, 结合条带和有光泽的光滑卷烟库, 摇滚风格的皮革和柔软的刺绣运用在了非常有女性廓形特点的披肩上。这一款有点向80年代致敬的意味, 腿上一抹亮眼的黄色又有运动的感觉,发型和夸张的妆容无不流露着80年代的特点。这个系列的其他款式有滑板短裤和军工致敬90年代,天鹅绒和泡泡袖是伊丽莎白时代表性的元素。难得看到这么多不同的元素出现在2019年的同一个系列里。 潮流不仅是流动的, 更是变幻莫测的。所以我们得出一个结论:你可以尝试任何你喜欢的款式, 你可以回到任何你神往的年代。

 

An over arching trend of all of the resort shows seems to be a stellar opening look, even more so than usual. The opening look at Louis Vuitton was an edgy blend of sportswear meets Hollywood glamour, combining stripes and flashes of color on sleek cigarette pants, rock and roll style leather with the softness of embroidery on an ultra feminine silhouette of a cape. Perhaps even a slight subtle nod to the 80’s, harking back to aerobic wear through the pop of yellow and of course this was also emulated through the 80’s hair and extravagant makeup. The rest of the collection also gave a nod to other eras like the 90’s through board shorts and combat boots while velvet fabrics and puffed sleeves said Elizabethan. It was refreshing to see all of these trends converge into one, showing that in 2019, trends are not only fluid but fickle too. The moral of the story? You can be who ever you want to be, in whatever decade you want to be in.


上海大学巴黎国际时装艺术学院(Shanghai University - MOD'ART International),成立于2003年,被外界誉为上海时装界的黄埔军校“,是国内第一个在上海创办的中法合作时装设计学院,国内率先引进奢侈品营销与管理专业。受到中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会、中国国际贸易促进会纺织行业分会等专业社会团体的支持。